Places & Their History Around Almerimar

Nothing like a guest or two to make you realise how little you know about the area! So prompted by Mac’s recent visit and the arrival today of Sands mum I thought I would do some digging around regards some places of local interest and history:

Background

Almería is a blend of history, art and nature that combined with over 3,000 hours of sunshine a year offers a vast expanse of coastline full of secluded coves, beaches and villages of whitewashed houses and streets very much in the Moorish influence.

The landscapes spread from the green mountains of Las Alpujarras, through the geographical diversity of the Cabo de Gata nature reserve, to the ochre coloured dunes of the Tabernes Desert.

Almería is a popular and affluent province with many to visit.

Almería

Situated in the easternmost point of Spain in the middle of the gulf Almería is a place of great contrasts. The dry climate and mild temperatures the city enjoys is refreshed by the sea breeze acting as a counterpoint to the warm winds from the desert sweeing across Enix, Alhamilla and Gata sierras.

Evidence has been found of prehistoric remains, but Almería didn’t really get established until the Romans arrived and built the trading port of Portus Magnus. Even then the founding of the city is credited to the Moors who remained from the 9th century to the 15th. Emir Abderramán II ordered the construction of the Bayana containing a zoco and a mosque, and in 995 Abderramán III constructed the Alcazaba, considered one of the greatest fortresses in Andalucia. Along with a larger mosque than the 9th century effort, and with walls around the entire perimeter, the construction of the defensive citadel is considered the true origin of Almería (names from the Arabic Al-miriya – Mirror of the Sea)

In 1489 the Catholic Monarchs reconquered Almería for Christianity enforcing numerous changes but not totally removing the Moorish influence.

A number of earthquakes hit Almería during the 16th century with a particularly large one in 1522 destroying virtually the whole city, and although rebuilt never really recovered until the 19th century thanks to the wine industry and the iron and lead mines.

Today Almería is a city of 150,000 people with good economic and urban expansion. The sea determines the principle leisure and commercial activities and indeed the patron of the city is the Virgin of the Sea, celebrated during the second half of August in the Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar. The fiesta has dancing of Sevillanas and the Fandangos in the stands along the length of Avenida del Mediterráneo. The local restaurants serve local dishes of gazpacho, bullabesa (seafood soup with mayonnaise sauce), caldo de pimentón (a broth spiced with paprika), and gurullos, a dish made with a base of ingredients and combined with many different ingredients.

The Alcazaba still dominates the city occupying 43,000 square metres and divided into three sections. The first of these is entered via the entrance stairway and gate known as Puerta de la Justicia, and has been converted into very attractive gardens. This served as the camp ground for the soldiers and a place of refuge for the citizens. Within this section is is the Torre de los Espejos, used to send signals to boats and the Torres de la Vela, whose bell was rung to warn of approaching enemy and to regulate irrigation time.

In the second are were a number of noble apartments serving as residence for the Moorish kings. This area is still occupied by the Mudéjar hermitage built by the Catholic Monarchs over the site of the mosque, a Moorish house, the soldiers’ baths and the ruinsof the Palace of Al Mutasim, of which the wall known as the Mirador de la Odalisca remains standing.

The third area is a medieval castle featuring the Patio de Armas (parade ground), the Keep, the Torre de la Noria del Viento and the Torre de la Pólvora.

The actual city has a semicircular shape and again is Moorish in origin, and is home to the impressive Cathedral by Diego de Siloé (built between 1524 and 1562) which was a fortified cathedral to withstand the constant threat of attack from Barbary Coast pirates. This is a unique building in Andalucia.

It has 4 hexagonal towers at each corner and inside a heavy Gothic influence dominates, especially notable are the High Alter and the cloister.

The cathedral is not alone as a walk through Almería will reveal many churches, and today lots of small cafes and bars in small squares. Ideal to sit and watch the world go by.

Cabo De Gata – Níjar

Located 25 km east of Almería the Cabo de Gata – Níjar Nature Reserve is a spectacular location, covering 34,000 hectares and offering a range of landscapes from the Sierra del Cabo de Gata to las Salinas (salt mines), the Bay of Almería and a mile of coastline. You will also find the volcanic site of Peninsula.

The primary vegetation is thyme, azufaito, esparto grass and palmito. For animal lovers you will find vipers, ocellated lizard Bonellis Eagle Lark Africa birds such as Dupont’s and the Trumpeter Finch. Most importantly the marine area is one of the most important and valuable ecosystems in the Mediterranean.

The main feature of the park are the numerous small towns dotted around. These are small, local, still traditional villages comprising:

• Cabo de Gata with its virgin beaches, salt mountains, lighthouse and many different types of birds
• Monsul, Morrón de los Genoveses and San José lie to the east with their fishing, rock formations and beaches
• North you have La Ensendada de los Escullos, La Isleta del Moro, Rodalquilar and Pozo de los Frailes with their eucalyptus trees, old gold mines and typifal Morrish streets

The village of Níjar lies 30km inland from Almería, based on the slopes of the Sierra de Alhamilla the village is a reminder of the Moorish influence, and today is renowned for its craft production centre. The town is famed for its plates, cups and jars made from clay dried in the sun and for its jarapas (rugs woven from cotton or wool). El Campo de Níjar provides a welcome income from grapes and spring vegetables.

Carboneras

This is a former fishing village with 16km’s of beaches, which gets its name from the 16th charcoal kilns. It is 60km from Almería and surrounded by mountains which made it the ideal location for the Morisco rebels. In 1580 Diego López de Haro (Marquis of Carpio) constructed the castleof San Andrés which is now a ruin. The are also offers up the nudist beach Los Muertos Beach which is accessible only by foot or by sea.

Mojácar

90km up the coast is Mojácar that many say is beautiful and picturesque and others say is cheap and tacky. Basically the old town (Mojácar la Vieja) is the former and the new town (Mojácar Playa) is the later.

Despite the passing of time and the fact that traces of Carthaginian and Roman settlements have been found here, Mojácar doesn’t hide its Moorish history. Many of it walls were built in the 15th century and the gate known as El Torreón and the Arch of Luciana remain and are worth a look. Other notable remains include: the Hermitage of Nuestra Señnora de los Doleres built between the 18th and 19th century in neoclassical style and the Parish Church of Santa María, a fortress church which dates back to the 16th century and was reformed in the 19th century.

For beach lovers there 17km of sandy beaches, and the tourist resort is good if you like that sort of thing! The area is known for its Indalo, a cave painting representing a tribal witch doctor with a serpent. It was discovered in the Cave of Los Letreros (Vélez-Blanco) and has since become a symbol of Mojácar and then Almería. In recent years the figure has become seen as a Rainbow God with magical powers. He can often be seen painted on the house fronts of the town to invoke protection. Around the 1940’s th eimage was adopted as an emblem by a group of painters from Almería led by Jesús de Perceval. They argued in favour of a renewal of aesthetic criteria, their message spreading rapidly amongst other artists. The result is that Almería became the scene of the intense cultural activity that can still be seen and enjoyed today.

Garrucha

5km from Mojácar Garrucha is a town of deeply rooted seafaring traditions, which has become a popular tourist area in recent years. Within the 0.4km of the borough there are 3 ports (commercial, leisure and pleasure) with the fishing port the most important to the area.

The prominence of the fishing trade is evident in the town slogan “Garrucha, sun and prawns”.

The landscape is dominated by the Castle of Jesùs Nazareno, a fortress with two turrets, which was built on the orders of Charles III to protect the coastline. The promenade is particularly attractive with marble balustrades, a remnant from the days when the wealthy mine owners had their summer properties here. Nowadays you will find many fine fish restaurants.

From Garrucha to San Juan de los Terreros, the last town in Almería province going towards Murcia, there are many beaches with clear water and great restaurants, including La Bolaga, Palomares, Villaricos, Cala del Hortelano, Cala Cristal, Cala de las Conchas, Cale Verde and Puerto del Rey.

Inland, 10km from Garrucha is Vera yet another province that combines the influences of Moorish and Christian architecture.

Vélez – Blanco

The old Vélez marquisate is located at the northernmost part of the province bordered by La Mancha and Murcia provinces. Located 200km from Almería this comarca (rural district) is very different from the rest of the area.

Vélez – Blanco is the capital and has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and has a population of 3,000 with a Carthaginian, Roman, Visigoth and Moors influence.

After the Christian reconquest the Catholic Monarchs named Pedro Fajardo Marquis of Los Vélez. He established his residence in 1506 and built the castle on the site of the Moorish alcazaba 1,100 metres high (the hill not the actual Castle!) which is generally thought of as of the finest examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture.

For an example of a Moorish street visit Barrio de la Morería. Other places of interest in the region are: Church of Santiago, Convent of San Luis, Fountain of the Five Jets and the excellent Cave of Los Letreros which contains some of the finest examples of cave painting in Southern Spain and which gave Almería one of its most representative images, the figure of the Indalo.

The Marble District

The main marble producing area in Spain is 75km from Almería and stretches along the Almanzora valley between Cantoria and Purcena. The earliest miners were Phoenicians, then the Romans had a go, but it was the Moors who really made the best use of it e.g. the Alhambra and mosque in Cordova.

The economic centre of the marble trade is Macael at the foothills of the Sierra de Filabres. 10km north is Olula del Río where you will find the Parish Church of San Sebastian and the Church of La Concepción, built from marble in the 20th century.

The Almería Desert

Think Almería Desert, think Spaghetti Westerns as a number of them were made in the area, along with a lot of biblical movies.

60km north of the city of Almería between the sierras of Filabres and Cabrera are the hanging houses of Sorbas, known as “Little Cuenca”. It was used as a defensive citadel falling under the power of Castile in 1488, and is today known for its ceramics and for the caves and underground formations.

The Tabernas desert covers an area of 12,000 hectres at the foot of the sierras of Filabres and Alhamilla and looks like something directly out of Africa. It is arid and bare area where temperatures in the summer can get above 45 degrees, yet in the winter at night can drop below zero.

The town of Tabernas gets its name from the large number of taverns and restaurants it once boasted. In the old town is yet another ruin of a impregnable Moorish alcazaba, which once played a decisive role as a defensive stronghold of the Kingdom of Granada. Other building include the Parish Church and the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de las Angustias.

The Alpujarra Region

The Alpujarra rural district lies between the Sierra Nevada and the Sierra de Gádor following the natural course of the River Andrax. The rugged nature of the region made it a perfect refuge for the Moors after the fall of Granada to the catholic Monarchs.

Canjáyar lies to the east and is the first village of the Alpujarra of Almería province, and stands at the meeting point of a number of guilles, riverbeds and canyons. Again its history goes back to Moorish time and the most interesting places are: Parish Church of Santa Cruz del Voto and the Sanctuary of Tices.

Further to the west is Laujar de Andarax which is the capital of the Alpujarra of Almería and the last resting place of Boabdil, the Moorish king who lost Granada in 1492. According to legend the first resident of Laujar was Tubal, who you will all know better as the grandson of Noah.

An interesting fact about the River Andrax is that it is said to be the only river that dry by the time it reaches its mouth. In Laujar itself you will find yet more remains of defensive walls and turrets, and the Parish Church of La Encarnación and the Pilar de los Cuatro Canos.

Berja

Berja lies between the Alpujarra and the west coast of Almería. This town of 12,000 inhabitants was known to the Romans as Virgis (garden), due to the richness of its lands, through which winds the River Adra.

The local lead and fluorite mines made Berja a prosperous township in the 19th century, and various palatial houses were built during this period. Wine-growing is another important local source of income.

The local landscape is now dominated by the white plastic coverings of greenhouses producing a huge variety of fruit and vegetables.

Located 50km from Almería Berja celebrates its local fiesta in honour of the Virgin of Gádor during the first fortnight in September. During the festivities it is traditional for the people of the town to walk barefoot to the 19th century Sancturary of the Virgin 3km away. another tradition takes place each April with the burning of a statue of Saint Tesifonte to invoke his protection.

The most impressive building are the Parish Church (neoclassical), Town Hall (19th century), Hermitage of Saint Testifonte (16th century) and a number of noble houses such as the Molino del Perrillo – the front of the houses are emblazoned with coats of arms.

The single most impressive aspect of Berja though are the numerous fountains fed by the waters flowing down from the Sierra Nevada. The most original is the Fountain of the Sixteen Spouts in Plaza Mayor.

Adra

Located at the mouth of the river by the same name and 55 km from Almería it has 20,000 inhabitants and a history spanning back to the Peninsula of the Phoenicians. Interestingly over the years as the river changed its path the town changed its location and its controllers having been run by the Greeks, Romans and Moors until the Catholic Monarchs decided to fortify it due to the strategic importance of controlling the Mediterranean.

The industrial revolution was good for Adra through the creation of sugar factories ad lead foundries. The importance to the economy of the mines in the nearby Sierra de Gádor when combined with the growth of the fishing and farming industries meant the creation of the port was required, which now harbours one of the largest fishing fleets in Southern Spain.

The many tourists to Adra’s beaches also can enjoy many gardened squares such as Plaza de Andalucia, Plaza de San Nicolás and Plaza de San Sebastián. If you venture out 4km you will find the La Albufera, a protected nature reserve covering 65 hectares.

El Ejido

El Ejido was founded by the Romans and is one of the west coast towns with the highest per capita incomes in the country. Originally called Murgi, it is now known locally as the “Sea of Plastic” because of all the greenhouses which house all kinds of fruit and vegetables for export and domestic consumption.

75,000 people are registered and 100,000 live in El Ejido, which is now a modern city with a surprising range of facilities and services, and a great night life it has to be said!!!

Until 1982 El Ejido belonged to the municipal borough of Dalías, and has been the scene of fratricidal strife between different Muslim factions, and still contains many vestiges of its Moorish past.

Roquetas De Mar

With its Phoenician origins and originally called Turania by the Romans, Roquetas is one of the top tourist areas in the region. It has a population of 70,000 registered and 85,000 living in, and is about 20km from Almería, and is located at the foot of the Sierra de Gádor in the Gulf of Almería. The beaches and large fishing fleet are main revenue sources, and inland there are saltworks which were first exploited by the Moors.

The town is dominated by the silhouette of the Santa Elena Lighthouse and is divided between the old part with the white washed houses and Castle of Santa Ana, Watchtower of Los Cerillos and the plaza with the Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, and the more modern cosmopolitan tourist area with the long beaches and clean waters.

Overall they get a good balance between the traditional and the modern, but it is the old festivities like the Fiesta de las Moragas which takes place on the beach every 29 December and the fiesta at the end of July for the Virgen del Carmen & Saint Anne.

Local towns that are worth a visit are Énix, Féloix and Vícar.

Aguadulce

Aguadulce is 10km from Almería and is an old fishing village considered by many to be the true precursor of tourism in the province. The origins of its name (Sweet Water) refer to the purity of the water, and it has 5km of great beaches that benefit from the mild climate due to the proximity of the sea and Sierra de Gádor which protects it from the cool north winds.

Again it has some Moorish defenses by way of two old towers known as Torre Garrofa and Torre Quebrada that visitors to this pleasure port can enjoy.

About Almerimar

Almerimar is located in the region of Andalucia, Spain. The nearest airport is 30km away in Almeria. Other airports that are within 3 hours include Malaga, Murcia, Granada, and Alicanti. Other holiday resorts in the region include Mojacar , Aguadulce and Roquetas de Mar

Almerimar is also one of the largest marinas in Spain with over 2,000 births and excellent boatyard facilities.

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